Diving into Indonesia's secrets

The yawning stretch of Indonesia’s island chains offers countless opportunities for interacting with – and understanding better – life in, on and under the waves. Superyachts provide the ultimate platform for exploration in a land where resort hotels are few and far between and where the best spots can best be described as ‘remote’ – and that in turn offers opportunity not only for local craftsmen and crew, but also for guests to recognise the need for conservation alongside experiencing the thrill of diving in pristine waters.

One of those locals helping guests make the most of their time in Indonesia is Yoyok Hariawan, who began his diving career in 1988 on Lombok Island in Bali. After two years, he became a dive master, and a year later qualified as an instructor. He’s spent the best part of 20 years working as an instructor at Amanwana on Eastern Indonesia’s Moyo Island, including aboard Aman’s two yachts, the 32-metre custom coastal cruiser Amanikan (now named Mahodaya) and the flagship 52-metre custom two-masted phinisi Amandira, where he worked as a cruise director.

In 2023, he joined sailing yacht Vela, a 50-metre new-build phinisi that offers a harmonious blend of ancient craftsmanship and enchanting cruising opportunities. As activities manager, he takes charge of guest excursions such as trekking, wakeboarding, paddle boarding and kayaking. But as the sole diving instructor on board, his expertise lies in what happens below the waves.

Hariawan stopped counting his dives after he reached 5,000. His love of the water stems from growing up by the sea, initially on the island of Java where earthly volcanoes and pre-historic jungles collide with stunning sandy beaches, before he moved as a child to Lombok. Yet, his long-standing career as a dive instructor came about by way of a professional mentorship during his mid-20s.

“I was working on a dive centre boat as a member of crew, and the British dive instructor asked me if I wanted to dive,” he says. “I told him that I wasn’t a good swimmer, but he supported me and encouraged me to still try. He took me to the swimming pool for my first dive and showed me how to breathe with diving equipment, before eventually taking me into open water. That was the start of something I love, and from that point my life and work changed forever. It wasn’t a conscious choice to become a diver, more of a happy accident.”

Yoyok’s ability to empathise with even the most nervous of novice divers is complemented by his gentle and warm nature. Softly spoken and always smiling, his expertise allows guests to complete their dive certification during their stay aboard Vela. Hariawan’s knowledge of Indonesia reaches far and wide. His dive itineraries are bolstered by his understanding of the surrounding area, from the Komodo National Park and Bali to Raja Ampat and beyond. The beauty of Vela (meaning shoreline) is that it cruises off the beaten path, heading for lesser known dives sites and snorkelling hot spots. The boat’s cruising itinerary takes in Raja Ampat in the winter, where drift and reef dives in richly biodiverse waters see guests swim with turtles and manta rays. In the summer months, Bali and the Komodo National Park offer shoreside sightings of Komodo dragons, while the option of exploring the famed Spice Islands in between seasons allows for treks into rainforests in search of the elusive Bird of Paradise.

In April 2023, I had the privilege of joining Vela for a charter in Komodo. In Saleh Bay, Sumbawa, we anchored overnight and rose before the sun in the hope of swimming with whale sharks, the largest fish in the sea. “Nature is one thing you can’t guarantee, but if you’re lucky, you can be surrounded by up to 12 whale sharks at a time,” says Hariawan.

The Sumbanese fishermen spend all night aboard their Bagan boats, casting their small nets to catch pura pura (similar to perch). They believe sighting a whale shark brings them luck and they throw chunks of their fresh catch back into the sea as an offering. On our morning, three of the elegant creatures circled our tender while we swam alongside them. It’s the type of bucket list experience that only a superyacht charter affords, made possible by the communication between Vela’s crew and the local fisherman, and only accessible thanks to Vela’s setup. 

I was lucky enough to also dive with Hariawan on two occasions during that trip, first at the northern tip of Komodo at Batu Moncho Point where pygmy blue whales are sometimes sighted, and later at the Golden Passage, just to the right of the Gili Islands. We spotted black tip reef shark, giant trevally, barracuda and porcupine pufferfish. Green and hawksbill turtles are plentiful, feeding on the soft coral. The large-lipped Napoleon wrasse is a sight to behold, but even the smaller yellow and striped fusilier, nippy triggerfish and oriental sweet lips make every dive a thrilling experience. With Hariawan as my guide, we avoided Komodo’s famed strong currents (including the ominously named site Shot Gun), instead gently drifting through a beautiful underwater world for an hour at a time. 

The top dive sites can often be crowded, especially during peak season. Having Hariawan’s local expertise allows for a more private and secluded experience at some of the best locations. Two decades since he first learned to dive, Hariawan’s passion for the ocean and yachting remains strong. “It’s a dream to work with a superyacht like Vela,” he says. “Dedicated dive boats have a rigorous regime with little opportunity to see the surrounding area, whereas charter yachts focus on the leisurely superyacht life. Guests wake in the morning for a sunrise dive, come back to a delicious breakfast laid out on the aft deck, maybe head off on a shore excursion before eating a gastronomic lunch prepared by the chef, and later heading out on a second dive. It’s a much slower, more relaxed pace with a focus on guest satisfaction.”

The 17,500 islands that make up the Indonesian archipelago are a superyacht paradise, home to orangutans and orca whales, which government sanctioned conservation programmes are working hard to protect. By engaging superyacht guests in the preservation of wildlife, such as turtle tagging charters, and working to help educate and support surrounding communities through carefully regulated activities, it’s another example of how superyachts and their crew bring a positive impact to the waters they sail. 

For Hariawan, having the opportunity to regularly dive and explore Indonesia’s diverse regions is something he never takes for granted. “We regularly spot giant green turtles in Komodo, which are much larger than turtles found in other parts of the world, and Raja Ampat remains largely untouched,” he enthuses. “We have a rare beauty above and below the water.”