Sailing in Sri Lanka

Majestic elephants and purple-faced leaf monkeys are the endemic wildlife that Sri Lanka is known for. Yet the waters surrounding the island country has some of the richest sources of deep sea fish in the world. Coral reefs, historical shipwrecks and diverse marine life make it a diving and snorkelling haven, where nesting sea turtles, reef sharks and dolphins can be sighted year-round. Though Sri Lanka’s yachting culture remains in its infancy, plans are afoot to position the country as a leading destination that embraces the superyacht life. When I visited in November, I discovered a sailing paradise rich in potential.

On the southwest coast, Galle’s landmark lighthouse and 16th century Portuguese Fort—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—draw the crowds. Beneath the waves, Sri Lanka’s first underwater museum is found at a depth of 15m in the natural harbour. On the beaches, the artisanal method of stilt fishing — where fishermen sit on a crossbar called a “petta” that’s tied to a vertical pole driven into the sand — remains a popular pastime, while the collection of fishing villages dotted along the coastline are now surfing hubs alive with chic shops, funky bars and cafes.

A vision for a future in yachting

Galle is one of three Sri Lankan ports of entry for visiting vessels. It’s also the only port that provides facilities for private yachts. If approved, the proposed developments by the Sri Lanka Ports Authority include a fully-fledged yacht marina in the Galle area with berthing facilities of up to 300m.

“Government, industry and the yachting community agree Sri Lanka has tremendous potential to realise its vision of becoming a maritime hub in the region,” says Nalin Perera, director general of Sri Lanka’s Tourism Promotion Bureau. “The many regulations concerning tender boat operations and the lack of anchorages suitable for superyachts held back significant superyacht cruising, which now actually adds to its attraction as a stunning adventure cruising destination.”

Further south along the coast at Mirissa Harbour, brightly painted traditional fishing boats add colour to the already beautiful bay area. It’s here, by the palm-lined sandy beach, where I boarded Crystal catamaran, one of 10 boats in Sail Lanka’s yachting fleet, to experience a two-night charter. I was joined by a welcoming crew of four, including chef Shanta, whose delicious Sri Lankan curries and local delicacies (ox curd with palm treacle for dessert) were a highlight.

From whale watching to tropical rainforests 

Luckily for me, Sri Lanka’s peak whale watching season extends from November to April when the seas are calm and whale migration patterns bring them closer to the shore. We set off in the early hours to sail south from Dondra, the most southern point of Sri Lanka, to where the continental shelf is narrow and access to deep offshore waters is relatively quick and easy. The morning is the best time to spot whales when they’re feeding near the surface, and we were soon rewarded with our first Bryde’s whale, the only large whale to spend its time entirely in tropical or sub-tropical waters. It breached the surface and blew a jet of water high into the air before heading on its way.

Mirissa is one of three main whale watching areas (the other two being Trincomalee in the northeast and Kalpitiya in the northwest). Guests can expect to see fin, minke, humpback, sperm, and even the mighty blue whale in Sri Lankan waters, not to mention daily dolphin sightings. We were frequently joined by spinner dolphins leaping at the bow of the boat when underway.

In Weligama Bay, where we anchored overnight, lies Jungle Beach. It sits at the foot of the Unawatuna Peace Pagoda and is surrounded by lush tropical rainforest alive with the chatter of macaque monkeys. It’s a popular spot with both tourists and locals offering views across to Galle, and warm, shallow waters ideal for swimmers of all ages, not to mention paddle boarding from the boat.

Nature is at the heart of Sri Lanka’s offering. For yachts cruising between the Red Sea and the UAE, as well as those based in the yachting hub of Thailand, Sri Lanka is an appealing midway destination with adventurous inland excursions for the taking, such as Lake Koggala. Just 20 minutes’ drive from Galle harbour, it’s one of the biggest natural lakes in the country with 22 islands rich in culture and a scattering of boutique hotels perched on its riverbanks. Tri Koggala is one such example, a 15-key independent hotel with arresting views and the chance to explore the large coastal lagoon by private boat or kayak. Crocodiles, pythons and tree frogs thrive in the thick freshwater mangroves. Five generations of cinnamon farmers live on the lake’s only inhabited island harvesting the spice year-round. Fish eagles and white-bellied sea eagles—Sri Lanka’s largest bird of prey—circle the skies above.

Having the opportunity to sail, dive and explore Sri Lanka’s diverse waters is an experience like no other. With the arrival of NEOM in Saudi Arabia and the promotion of the Red Sea Region as a winter destination, Sri Lanka is a yachting sanctuary on the rise.